Levada dos Cedros: Into the Heart of Madeira’s Ancient Rainforest

Deep in the rugged mountains of northwest Madeira, the Levada dos Cedros winds through one of the island’s most enchanting and untouched landscapes. This tranquil hiking trail follows a centuries-old irrigation channel through dense laurel forest (Laurisilva), alive with birdsong, filtered light, and the quiet flow of water. It’s a journey into another world — one shaped not by development, but by deep time and natural rhythm.

Less famous than some of Madeira’s headline hikes, Levada dos Cedros offers solitude, shade, and one of the best opportunities to experience the island’s UNESCO-listed cloud forest — a rare and vital remnant of the ancient subtropical forests that once blanketed southern Europe.

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A Historic Levada Through Living Fossils

Like all levadas, the Levada dos Cedros was originally constructed to channel water from the wetter highlands to the drier agricultural regions in the south. Built centuries ago by hand, these narrow aqueducts are a testament to Madeira’s ingenuity and need for sustainable farming in steep terrain.

Levada dos Cedros in particular was designed to draw water from the Ribeira da Janela region, one of the wettest parts of the island. The trail today follows this levada as it carves a gentle path through Fanal Forest, part of the larger Laurisilva of Madeira, which dates back more than 20 million years.

This is not a landscape of towering peaks or dramatic cliffs. Instead, the magic of Cedros is in its stillness — in the way mist curls around ancient trees, in the echo of birdcalls through moss-covered branches, and in the feeling of walking through a living, breathing time capsule.

What to Expect on the Trail

The Levada dos Cedros trail is around 7 km one-way, or 14 km return, and is typically walked as a point-to-point route between Fanal and the road junction at Ribeira da Janela (ER209). Most hikers start at Fanal, where you can explore the iconic til (Ocotea foetens) forest before beginning the gradual descent.

Trail Highlights

• Fanal Forest: One of Madeira’s most photographed locations, this misty grove of ancient laurel trees feels almost mythical. The forest’s gnarled, moss-covered trees appear as though from a fairytale, especially on foggy mornings.
• Laurel Forest Ecology: As you walk, you’ll pass through a primeval ecosystem that includes Madeiran laurel, heather, mosses, and ferns, with trees that are endemic to the Macaronesian islands.
• Birdlife: This area is a haven for birdwatchers. Look for the Madeira firecrest, chaffinches, and the elusive Trocaz pigeon, found only on the island.
• Ribeira da Janela Views: As you descend, the forest opens occasionally to reveal glimpses of Madeira’s wild northwest valleys and the deep gorges carved by ancient rivers.

The path is well-maintained, relatively flat, and shaded for most of the way, making it suitable for most fitness levels. It’s not overly technical, but due to frequent moisture and occasional narrow ledges, good walking shoes and care are advised.

Ecology: A Sanctuary of Endemism

The Laurisilva forest of Madeira, protected as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the last and largest surviving examples of the subtropical forests that once covered large parts of southern Europe and North Africa during the Tertiary period.

Here, you’ll find:

• Ocotea foetens (Madeiran laurel) — one of the tallest native trees, often draped in moss
• Laurus novocanariensis — a close relative of the bay laurel
• Erica arborea and Erica scoparia — towering tree heathers
• Endemic mosses, ferns, and lichens, thriving in the constant mist

The forest not only preserves rare plant life but also supports critical hydrological systems — absorbing rain and fog, feeding the levadas, and preventing erosion.

Geology: A Landscape Forged by Water and Time

The entire northwest corner of Madeira is shaped by ancient volcanic flows, particularly basaltic lava that once poured from the island’s central peaks. Over time, erosion by wind and water sculpted this terrain into steep valleys, jagged ridgelines, and narrow river canyons like Ribeira da Janela.

The Levada dos Cedros cuts across these geological formations, hugging cliff sides and crossing small waterfalls, revealing the layered volcanic history of the island.

At Fanal, the volcanic plateau creates a flat, sponge-like landscape that holds moisture and supports the dense cloud forest. It’s a stark contrast to Madeira’s drier south coast and a powerful example of how elevation and geology define ecosystem boundaries.

When to Visit

Levada dos Cedros can be enjoyed year-round, but spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November) offer the most pleasant conditions — mild temperatures, blooming plants, and reduced crowds.

Winter brings increased mist and rainfall, enhancing the mystic feel of the forest, though trails may be muddy. Summer is drier and clearer, but the dense forest canopy provides shade even on warm days.

Because the forest is often shrouded in fog, try to start early or monitor weather conditions via local forecasts for the best photographic conditions.

How to Get There

• By Car: The Fanal car park is accessible via the ER209 road from Porto Moniz or Ribeira da Janela. Parking is available at both trailheads.
• By Tour: Several local eco-tour companies offer guided hikes through Levada dos Cedros, often combined with visits to Fanal and other levadas in the region.
• By Bus: Limited public transport is available, and not well-suited for one-way hiking, so car or guided tour is recommended.

If doing the hike one-way, arranging a taxi pickup at the end point (Ribeira da Janela) is advisable.

Conclusion: Levada dos Cedros — A Journey Through Time and Trees

Levada dos Cedros is not just a hike — it’s an immersion into one of the most ancient and atmospheric ecosystems on Earth. It’s the sound of water echoing through mossy ravines, the filtered light on laurel leaves, and the feeling of walking where the island breathes most quietly.

Whether you’re a nature lover, photographer, or simply a curious walker, this levada invites you to slow down, look closer, and step softly. In return, it offers a living connection to Madeira’s soul — green, ancient, and ever-flowing.